Just transition to circular textile systems

Abstract

The 21st century has seen the proliferation of multiple social and environmental challenges. The textile industry - especially the fast fashion paradigm - has received heavy criticism for contributing to emissions, pollution, and social inequalities. At the same time, sustainability has pervaded the agendas of many governments and businesses. The circular economy (CE) is a novel paradigm foreseen as an answer to multiple sustainability challenges, but the extent to which it can contribute to sustainability has been debated. Research is lacking, especially in understanding whether, and how, CE acknowledges, integrates, and ameliorates social justice challenges.

This dissertation will explore the justice aspects of the transition to circular textile systems and outline how we can build just and sustainable circular systems, in the context of the Global South. The issue is explored via cases (agricultural-residues-for-textile-fiber in India and the exporting textile cluster in Tamil Nadu) and an overall review. This dissertation uses a mix of quantitative and qualitative methods.

The key finding is that the transition to circularity may bring about or reproduce multiple justice-related issues unless designed from early on to answer and mitigate such issues. Current injustices of linear systems, such as low wages, might be reproduced. Novel circular practices, such as using agricultural residues for textile fibers, can bring about livelihood opportunities and decreased pollution. However, at the same time, if farmers are not fairly included, low prices, harm to other operations, and decreased soil quality may emerge. Inclusion is key to achieving positive outcomes. Furthermore, the transition to circularity may bring about various justness tensions in global supply chains. For example, the actors in the textile cluster in Tamil Nadu emphasized the need for even faster fashion – in stark contrast with the most environmentally beneficial solution –slower fashion.

For the circular transition to contribute to justness, several practical tools are recommended, such as the co-design of supply chains, deliberation mechanisms, and compensation for harm done. This dissertation argues that a truly just and sustainable transition happens in the interface of procedural, recognitive, restorative, and distributive justice and environmental, social, and economic sustainability dimensions. The design of a CE should integrate these elements to make the transition just and sustainable.